Friday, September 17, 2010

Spring 2011: Same circus, Different Tent

After eight days of running around during Fashion Week I’m frankly pooped. And while I’d rather sleep for another eight days I figured I’d better give you the scoop while I’m still conscious.

My week started with Fashion’s Night Out. My friends and I braved the hordes and had a terrific time in spite of the crush. The standouts for me were the tap dancers in Bergdorf’s window, the models dressed in red Escada gowns parading down Fifth Avenue, caring darling umbrellas from Elizabeth Arden and the scene at Kenneth Cole’s boutique where everybody got personalized screen printed tees and their photos snapped for the designers web site.

As for the actual fashion shows my guess is that you’ve already been inundated by the media so I’ll just give you my impression of the whole circus. While it may seem to you that covering a week of shows is a glamorous way to spend the time (especially as the venue has moved from Bryant Park to Lincoln Center), in actuality, it’s been a schlep and I’m not looking forward the making the rounds in the winter since I gave my “chauffeur” the year off! So these are my thoughts on the collections: Lacoste as usual did their thing with a fresh take on classic sportswear with a French twist. The standouts were the black and white separates. In addition, Lacoste launched its first jewelry collection. I love the bold resin cuff that was given to the show attendees. Casual chic at it’s best while Yigal Azrouel showed some gorgeous pared down pieces timeless in their sophisticated simplicity.

While it’s obvious that Christian Siriano’s heart lies in designing red carpet ballgowns what I preferred were his clean, chic sportswear items, especially the belted leather safari jacket and stretch cotton trousers and a cotton kimono shirt dress with double buckled belt. Back to the red carpet and Farah Angsana’s ivory silk chiffon gown
with Swarovski crystal and metal chain trimmed neckline and a pretty black chiffon ruffled number with ostrich feather detail. I can always count on Monique Lhuillier for gorgeous evening wear and she didn’t disappoint. If I had the lifestyle that warranted these designer clothes I would definitely check out her pink floral printed chiffon asymmetrically draped gown or the cream soutache gazar a-line cocktail dress. Also perfect for the money’s no object crowd was the magnificent collection that Carolina Herrera showed. I loved her subtle take on the traditional Korean robes. For me, the standouts were the simple yet sophisticated cocktail dresses, especially the metallic tweed and black sesame and gold burnt sequin double cross fold number with hibiscus “Korean” bow and any one of her gorgeous evening gowns. Bravo!

It seemed like a lot of designers concentrated on late day dressing for spring and Edition Georges Chakra’s collection stood out as one of the best. Personally I’d be perfectly happy with any one of his ombre chiffon gowns in purple or saffron, the pale grey crepe number or his taupe charmeuse gown with satin strap basketweave and caged neckline. Time to get back to reality and surprise, surprise, affordable daywear. I went off site to check out Callula Lillibelle’s debut presentation and was pleasantly surprised by the terrific looks. I would personally but the black satin pinpoint cotton bolero jacket that was shown over a pretty full skirted print cocktail dress (forget late day , this dress can work anytime) in a beige/taupe/ivory. A beige and silver cotton zip front dress was the height of sporty chic. I also liked Yoana Baraschi’s gold safari jacket worn over a draped chiffon blouse and chalk wide leg utility trousers. Lets face it not everyone can or wants to wear skinny pants and leggings. While I found Tess Giberson’s collection a little to esoteric (think downtown artist) for me there was one cute outfit, a black cotton voile asymmetric shirt paired with black tropical wool folded shorts which looked sort of like a mini kilt. By now you know that I always check out Adrienne Vittadini’s collections. For me there’s always something that I covet. This season it was design director Kristina Salminen’s knockout black and white ikat topper that I’d wear to death since it would go over everything. Also terrific, her take on the safari look, but interpreted in an indigo denim (and I don’t even usually like denim) dress that’s perfect for the workplace. Vittadini’s collections are always on trend without going overboard.

That’s it for the designer shows. Next time I’ll fill you in on the happenings around town including Robert Verdi’s Lux Lounge, The Daily’s lounge at the Townhouse Spa and the Victoria’s Secret event, plus my beauty report, so stay tuned. It’s nap time!

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Crap and Couture, Notes From the Back Row