Old-school and classic all the way, Fratelli Rossetti is best known and well-recognized internationally for eleganza-style footwear and accessories that cater to the status-minded, well-heeled (no pun intended here) man and woman. Through the years, the venerable Italian company has always kept the Rossetti name and the brand’s authentic DNA of style and haute couture-fashion at luxury price-points front and center; nothing new about all of that in 2012. But, what is new and quite exciting to both of the men’s and women’s collections for the Fall-Winter 2012-13 season is the verve, elan and sex-appeal of basically everything the company serves up for the new season, right across the board.
With all of this being said, let us begin with an overview of the “Milano Moda Men” grouping, which is clearly all about “Colour that fits like a glove”, or in other words, the presentation of “All Over”, the shoe coloured from head to toe. In this vein, wintertime is definitely all about colour, as evidenced by an array of hyper cool footwear – Brera moccasin, round-toe lace-up, ankle and sporty boots, et al., rendered in suede or batik calfskin - painted by fine craftsmen, from the uppers to the sole, in one singular nuance. Here, shades of myrtle, ottanium, bottle green and burgundy seem just perfect for men like the traditional gent, all the way through to the Williamsburg-Greenpoint, Brooklyn hipster; the kind of guys who favor wit, whimsy and refined style, while not taking themselves too seriously.
In general, Rossetti’s “All Over” collection is a prime example of how the company lavishes care and attention to every detail, even those that are well hidden. Further to the fact that the company produces nothing less than haute couture footwear, no matter if the customer is male or female, is the fact that each shoe, which generally requires at least three days of work to complete, is made in Milan’s Parabiago workshops. Finite construction techniques include cutting and sewing using traditional methods, whereby master artisans paint the welt using a brush and the same colour as the uppers. Next, the profile (sole edge) is painted and wax buffed by hand to finish and emphasize the colour. Lastly, the sole is in turn artisan painted, and coordinated with the rest of the shoe, to give a unique and different, one-of-a-kind effect.
Taking its cue from the menswear grouping, Rossetti presents “the wo-mannish style” for girls who want feminine and sensual footwear with a masculine twist. Obviously, this mode of thinking translates well for the woman who is androgynous and chic; conscious and anti-conformist. The new line is chock-full of typically masculine prints and detailing, all of which are sexy, modern, and fresh for the coming season. For Rossetti, the story is about a modern-day heroine returning to the sartorial rigour of the 30’s and ‘40s, while at the same time, has no problem in showing off her feminine irreverence. A key trend for the season is the “Dandy” grouping, the hallmark of which includes slip-ons, boots and ankle-boots, in a vintage-look leather, seen in classic shades of tan, dark brown, burgundy and bottle green.
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Added retro and vintage details, such as piping and internal edging in grosgrain, complete the feeling. Anti-conformist inspiration plays through in the new “derby without laces”, which creates an easy-going and andro-chic look.