Saturday, February 23, 2013

SHOW AND TELL: Fall NY Fashion Week 2013

We came, we saw, the snowstorm conquered fashion week! 

Despite the hassle of getting to the various venues (which didn’t seem to stop some idiot fashionistas from wearing stilettos), your intrepid reporter did manage to hit a number of shows and get a feel for what’s coming up next fall. I did see a lot of neutrals, white and black shades, plus texture, neoprene, leather, furs and knits aplenty that season after season look chic. I personally have a problem with all the techno fabrics. Unless you want to look like a walking hologram or a piece of aluminum foil, I suggest you pass this trend by.

My week started off with an L.A. based firm, GYPSY05, and its collection of eco-friendly separates and dresses with a ‘70s California vibe. Think Kate Hudson or a young Stevie Nicks and you get the picture. Check out the printed maxi dress and any one of the lush ombre velvet tops. Gypsy also showed one of a kind clutch and hobo bags made from vintage Indian blankets.


GYPSY05 -
Obligatory "Gypsies, Tramps and Thieves" 
Joke Omitted For Your Pleasure


 

Photo Credit:  M. McKenzie


Also off site (but definitely worth the trek across snow filled streets) was the presentation given by CATHERINE MALANDRINO. The overall theme was the era of French Art Deco that translated into graphic, geometric shapes and sensuous fabrics. In a season of standout coats, Malandrino offered two gorgeous pieces in burgundy, I loved a chic funnel collared long wool coat and a knockout deco embroidered leather. For dancing the night away in a smoky boite there was a black velvet embroidered nude tulle slip dress –very jazz baby.

If you buy nothing next fall, please invest in a new coat. One of the best versions turned up at TANYA TAYLOR. Her take on the classic overcoat came in either a stunning alpaca plaid or a navy or burgundy virgin wool.

While we’re on the subject of outerwear I must include some terrific styles for men. At LACOSTE (which incidentally showed a strong collection for both sexes), the white, iceberg printed hooded coats and jackets looked totally modern, while at NAUTICA, the sporty looks were a bit more practical. I loved the yellow parka with LED light detailing at the back of the collar- very practical and cool looking. Reading through my notes I mentioned the fact that there were many items that the girls would covet. These include a grey leather parka with red shearling lined hood, and a black crackled shearling toggle coat.

Back to the ladies starting with CZAR by Cesar Galindo. For me the collection was a mixed bag. The highlights were a teal variegated brocade fingertip length cocoon coat over slim pants, and the same fabric in taupe fashioned into point front jacket atop a side ruched jersey dress. The brocade’s shimmer was what caught my eye. Wear either outfit day or night – I would!

Day or Night, Inside or Out, CZAR Can Rule a Wardrobe

 
Photo Credit: Thomas Concordia

I happen to love the space age look of bonded wool and there were some winners in MILLY’s show. Check out her coral bonded wool zip jacket (skip the hologram separates shown with this), and the black bonded wool back zip collar top and shorts, very young and cute.

For the affluent woman of any age there’s J.MENDEL. His collection was worth considering a bank robbery or neglecting a mortgage payment. It’s your call. Where do I begin? Probably with a mouthwatering pearl mink intarsia zipped turtleneck sweater and white silk crepe slim pants, followed by a black textural paneled grooved mink coat worn over black chiffon shirt with white ermine high collar and chiffon and satin faced panel pleated skirt. If fur’s not your thing, there’s a gorgeous royal blue floral organza cloque sleeveless A-line dress with black trim that’s simply perfect.

For the ladies who lunch there’s SON JUNG WAN who delivered a sophisticated collection for the over 30 crowd. I loved her soft cream/nude color palette (very flattering on every age). Highlights included a nude pink peplum blazer over cream color pleated skirt, the rex fur trimmed beige wool capelet and high waisted pant. There ‘s a real showstopper for the red carpet if that’s your life style. Wan’s golden fox fur coat had gold sequin insert detailing between the horizontal pelts.

Getting back to reality, I stopped by the MATHEU MIRANO instillation. Fighting my way through the hoard of photographers I spied some nice outfits, namely a nude beaver fur cropped zip front jacket over felted wool pencil skirt, a nude felted wool coat with black chainmail covered fox fur detail and the metallic silver sweater dress with pleated detail.

TRINA TURK showed a very wearable collection that showcased some interesting fabrics, furs and sumptuous colors and textures. Here we go with coats again. Buy her ombre melton double breasted car coat shown over a two tone chunky sweater and oxblood lamb stovepipe pants, the wineberry curly lamb and rabbit coat or a yummy chocolate sheared alpaca and melton zip coat.

ANNA SUI’s very French inspired collection was one of her best. I found a new grown-up sophistication that appealed to me. Out of the 46 outfits that strode down the runway, these were the standouts for me: the teal cocoon slub coat (very Missoni), hood, black turtleneck sweater and midnight deco print crepe de Chine dress, a (think Chanel) magenta double faced wool coat atop fuchsia foulard border print chiffon dress and ribbed turtleneck. I also crave the gold horizontal quilted lame coat and matching dress

I saved the best for last, and for me that was LISA PERRY’s debut fall 2013 collection. She presented the capsule ‘60s inspired collection at her upper east side boutique to a packed crowd. Dubbed mazes, twists and doodles, the 24 piece line was youthful, wearable and chic in a way that will never go out of style. My fave was the cream/black houndstooth wool flirt jacket, circle skirt and logo sweater in black wool/cashmere. Very Jackie Kennedy in the early 1960s, and a look that will never go out of style. Be sure to check out her collection at Barney’s as well as her boutique. 


Yours truly also got a chance to hit the fashion week lounges set up for the press and editors. 



C&C Loves the Lounge Life!
 Photo Credit:  M. McKenzie

A highlight for me was meeting the Nigerian born, London based designer, DURO OLOWU who previewed his collection for JCP (that’s J C Penny) at the Stone Rose Lounge. To quote him, “I want to bring some international flavor to lifestyle dressing.” That he did with a colorful, affordable collection including rtw, accessories and home goods. Be sure to get one of his checked capacious east west totes (I love mine) in vibrant shades of green, etc. and the coordinating crew neck sweater. If you love color and patterns, you’ll love this designer.

Duro Olowu's Designs Brighten Up You, Your Room, and JCP!

 
Photo Credit:  M. McKenzie


I hit this space the following day to check out some other vendors. My hot pick goes to FITFLOP shoes. These combine comfort with style -woman cannot live by stilettos alone! I ordered a tri-tone pair of buttery soft calfskin oxfords but the cap toe slip on flats and desert boots were also calling my name. Decisions, decisions.

FLUTTER EYEWEAR introduced it’s new collection at the lounge. As some one who is blind as a bat I can certainly appreciate any company that offers stylish frames. The brand mainly focuses on reading glasses but I opted for a chic pair in aubergine color that I’ll wear for distance. I have very high cheekbones and this brand had the most comfortable frames of any that I’ve tried in years. The collection will be available online at www.fluttereyewear.com

Chic, Charitable, Cheekbone- and Canine- Friendly
Flutter Eyewear Does All So You See All

Photo Credit:  M. McKenzie

One nice touch, a portion of Flutter Eyewear's profits go to Canine Companions which provide trained dogs as companions for people with disabilities. Another great reason to order a pair.

That’s all for now… to be continued. C & C.

Crap and Couture, Notes From the Back Row